Behind the scenes with Loewe designer Jonathan Anderson, who won Fashion Week

And that set the table for a huge Loewe show, Anderson’s other major design role. You may recall that last year Anderson took a sharp left turn from the handmade roots of the Spanish leather house to bloated surrealism. After JWA, this collection further ripped menswear to the studs. It was literally an examination of the DNA of style, an examination of silhouette, material and attitude. The audience, including Timothée Chalamet, stirs as a model appears dressed in a coat forged from copper plate: a trench sculpture that flutters open just as the wearer moves fluidly. The piece, the most impressive runway look of the season, took about 40 days to complete. “I think menswear can be such an exciting platform, as a way to try things out,” Anderson quipped after the show. There’s more of an aesthetic basis for capturing men, he noted, and it’s also a smaller business — and lower commercial expectations allow more room to get weird. “I feel like I’m at this point where I want to push the boundaries in different materialities or the silhouette itself,” he added.

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorun, Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorun, Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Anderson continued to push with several billowing shirts and T-shirts made from stiff vellum or vellum, and oversized coats molded into drooping shapes using traditional hat-making techniques, ancient crafts brought into modernity. “I like this idea that it’s frozen in time,” Anderson said of the pieces of parchment. “It’s almost like throwing on a tee at -40 [degree weather].” More coats—there were many coats and even more boyish shorts—were cut without buttons, held by the models’ outstretched arms in a gesture reminiscent of a classical portrait. (Anderson is obsessed with art and collaborated with artist Julien Nguyen on the set design.) Other models wore long pants or simple jumpers with cherubic wings sprouting from their backs. Big rough suede coats and suits, the only obvious connection to Loewe’s artisanal identity, were the pieces you could most imagine walking into a Loewe store and actually buying, but they stayed on topic. “I’m obsessed with this idea of ​​the overall look of leather, that it makes you have an attitude — that the material tells you what to do,” Anderson said.

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 21: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For non-editorial use, please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Loewe Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 21, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)Pascal Le Segretin/Getty Images

Anderson has clearly thought a lot about why he makes clothes and men’s relationship to them, and whether his luxury designs should fit into the universal act of getting dressed every morning. Which begs the question: how does this show have anything to do with what clothes I should buy next season? Anderson decided he wasn’t all that interested in answering that question. “If I show you T-shirts, you’re going to hate it. Or you might like it,” he said. He wants you to ask something deeper about the things we see on the runways. “I hope we’re entering a period where it’s about being uncomfortable in design, about trying to find something new,” he continued. “Because if we do that, then we might enjoy the clothing. You know what I mean? Not the brand, but the clothing.

Anderson has a way of setting trends, and I hope that one lesson from these two shows will be learned: that men’s fashion needs less trends and more ideas.

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